Add top soil or clay, even heighten the sod around the
building, against the foundations to change the negative slopes going in the direction of the building to positive slopes
toward the street and property lines.
e) If the basement window sills
in the concrete foundation are too low to be able to embank the soil all around the house, add basement window wells.
f) lastly, if this is insufficient, install a sump pump with a depth of at least 27" to
30" inch
deep.
Deep enough to bring down the water table ( phreatic table) under the basement slab in order that when the pump starts at the high control level,
the water level under the slab be at least 6" inch lower.
g) To dig around the house to change the foundation, (French drains) around the house serve nothing if the above points are not respected.
In the majority of cases, it is not that the foundation drains are blocked; it is that the drains are overflowed with more than
10 times too much water and have been wet for 10, 20, 30 years or more.
Eventually, humidity or water appears through the porous concrete of the foundation. (1/2" inch per year)
Important data:
The four (4) down spouts coming from the eves at the four (4) corners are almost of the same
dimension of four inch installed near the foundations.
In addition, during intense rainfalls, a vertical pipe gives three time more flow than an accordion shaped pipe installed horizontally.
Four (4) down spouts X three (3) times more flow = twelve (12) more flow than the capacity of the foundation drain.
If in addition the runoffs flows of the lot and of the surrounding land are added, it is impossible that a foundation drain suffice.
Second important data:
The "French" foundation drains should NEVER be used as a pluvial evacuation sewer or drain pipe. If it is done, see here what happens:
window sills Click me!
Foundation drains are used mainly to dry-up the soils before the freeze-up of winter to avoid formation of cracks
in the foundations, mainly if they are properly insulated.
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