Building Inspection Guide
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The cause of cracks in foundations
and water in basements

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The importance of sending water away from foundations using top soil, clay or sod and not crushed stones alongside foundations.

The slopes of the ground need to send away the water from the foundations, otherwise, there will almost always be cracks every 10' to 20' feet apart alongside the foundations, mainly if they are insulated.

Cézanne certainly illustrated well a crack in a wall.

A first principle, that is a case of situation: In the majority of cases, it takes (4) conditions for the development of cracks in foundations:

1 - The foundations need to be insulated with four (4") to six (6") inches of insulation, that give's an insulation factor of R: 13 or R: 20, or 13 to 20 times more than a concrete wall of ten (10") inch thickness (factor R= 0.9) not insulated.
2 - The building need to be in a hole or in a depression and not on a bump or embanked, meaning that the water flows toward the foundation walls instead of flowing away.
3 - That there are a more marked/localized depression against the wall in one place where humidity or water accumulate against the foundation.
4 - That the soil, full of water in this place, freeze's on a depth of at least one (1') foot.

The result: Almost always, half way between the front and back walls, a vertical crack will be found in the foundation, repaired or not, that can extend in the brick wall above to the roof of the building of (3) tree to (4) four stories.

The second principle that is one of physics:

1 - Water that transform to ice heaves.
2 - A bottle or a pail of water that freezes, by expanding, blow-up on the sides since there are no or limited lateral restrains from the walls, except the container wall itself.
3 - A cubic foot of soil full of water restrained by the other cubic foot surrounding, has no other place to expand than to expand vertically upward and heave.
4 - it is why that a wet soil and restrained from all sides heaves vertically.
5 - It is the same phenomena in our streets in winter. If there are some cracks in the pavement and water flow's in, the water under the pavement, by freezing, heaves the pavement.

Each time there is thawing and re-freezing, additional water penetrates, the paving heave's more and more to make a bump getting higher all the time. Eventually, the pavement brake's up and the pieces are eventually ejected out of the pot hole by the vehicles.

Alongside a foundation wall that is insulated, if the soil is wet, it will freeze and if it adhere to the wall on one (1') foot high or more; this localized heaving acts as a lever point of support (as for an hydraulic jack) and forces vertically the wall on 1/64" inch or more, sufficient to create a crack in the wall.

Heaving by ice or pyrite

It is a fact, and this without exceptions, that a home that never had it's basements freeze, for the last year or 50 years; if the basement concrete slab freezes with water under the slab for two (2) weeks or more, the slab will heave and it will not be caused by pyrite.

It is sure that a building that never froze in the basement, if the sump pump has no electric current, the water accumulated under the slab will heave and it will not be caused by pyrite.

NRC - CNRC:

Factors that Enhance Pyrite Weathering and Heaving

Documented experiences are so meager that all the factors or combinations of factors that contribute to pyrite weathering and destructive heaving and bulging of basement floors are still not known with certainty.

See: CBD-152. Expansion of Pyritic Shales
by: E. Penner, W.J. Eden, P.E. Grattan-Bellew

It make sense or not, no matter where the information comes from. In reality, about thirty different points where mentioned and brought by all sorts of individual, professionals, Civil Engineers, Structural Engineers, people having a lot of experience like the contractors and builders of homes, many having a very long on hand experience, the concrete specialists, concrete suppliers, many individuals that simply say that no element known to man, can grow by 6' inches in (15) days.

Cracks in foundation walls:

First will be described cracks in the middle of a long wall. After, we will study cracks in the corners and in different parts of walls.

A crack midway between the front and back wall.

Facts:

1 - A vertical crack in a foundation wall is always right through.
2 - A crack of this dimension is very narrow and let's through very little water or humidity.
3 - A temporary measure is to deposit one or two bags of top soil in front of this crack to make a dam to avoid rainwater from getting near and trickling in.
4 - As long as the crack does not get wider, a very small seeping will be found inside and a little bit of white efflorescence powder will be found on drying.
5 - In this crack, there are neither shearing, sinking, (one side of the crack higher or lower than the other side) nor tipping.
6 - This crack show a heaving by winter freezing and not a summer soil sinking by mining under the footing .
Some may say that those cracks are not normal, but are common and cause no problems.

Cracks can be repaired with mortar as in the past or with epoxy as it has become current for hairline cracks.


Examples of cracks and the causes of occurrence.

B - "V" shape cracks in the corners.
C - Corner cracks in the shape of a staircase.
D - Cracks at the corners of basement windows.
E - Cracks in brick walls going only partially up or down the wall.

F - Cracks going up to the top of the walls.
G - Cracks at the top corners of walls.
H - Cracks with shearing. One side of the crack lower or higher than the other side.
I - Cracks that get wider and tells of a sinking of a part of the wall or of the building.
J - Horizontal cracks in poured in place concrete of the foundation.
K - Horizontal cracks in poured in place concrete in the outside stucco at 3/4 of the height of concrete staircase.
L - Horizontal cracks in the stucco or concrete of a back enclosed concrete terrace.
M - Horizontal cracks in the outside stucco at the level of the soil.
N - Horizontal cracks in the outside stucco at the level where the brick wall begins at the top of the foundation.
O - Vertical crack in a firewall between two houses.
P - Cracks in a stucco wall that resembles an alligator skin.
Q - Cracks in the granite or concrete at the top of windows or doors.

Examples cracks and the conditions required for their development.

A - Cracks without shearing or toppling.

a) It is a crack without shearing or toppling meaning that there is certainly no need for piles as there are no sinking.

In the study of what those cracks represent!
In the clicked enlargement, it can be seen that, if both side are aligned horizontally, both sides of the teeth would fit like a in a gear. In this corner crack, it can be seen that the crack developed on the side wall and not on the back wall.
It can also be seen that the crack goes away from the ground of the back of the house where the oil delivery pipes are.

Also, the ground level is much lower beside the back wall than on the side wall and that runoffs accumulate much more there than on the side wall,
The ground, by freezing and heaving more on the back does heave more in the back and has created the crack on the side wall.

B - Example of water in a basement.

a) Vertical cracks, even if they are very small "hair line" size are cracks right through, outside to inside cracks.

In this case, the slopes are inverted and send the runoffs of the down spouts of the eves and of the surrounding land toward the foundation.
It can be seen that the crack does not even extend to the brick wall.

But, humidity and runoffs from the roof and surrounding ground follow the foundation.

Some of it enters the crack that is right through. And appears in the basement garage.

When there is a vertical crack in a foundation, if there are no shearing / decent of one side of the crack in relation to the other side or that there are no toppling, this show that there are no sinking of the structure.....meaning that there are no need for piles to stop a decent, since there are no decent/sinking to be corrected.

Note: See the section on the strength of concrete, even if there is cracks in the foundation.

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CONCLUSION

The most important part of this section is the importance that there is a positive slope to keep runoffs away from the foundations.

The importance to raise / embank earth berms around buildings so as to keep water away from foundations and avoid cracks, mainly for insulated foundation walls.

Resume

So, what must be done to avoid humidity and water in basements?

If eventually humidity or water appears in the basement

a) Unhook the down spouts of the eves from any pipe or drain underground.

b) Install elbows and out of ground extensions to the down spouts.

c) Get rid of all low ground or crushed stone against the foundations.

d) Add top soil or clay, even heighten the sod around the building, against the foundations to change the negative slopes going in the direction of the building to positive slopes toward the street and property lines.

e) If the basement window sills in the concrete foundation are too low to be able to embank the soil all around the house, add basement window wells.

f) lastly, if this is insufficient, install a sump pump with a depth of at least 27" to 30" inch deep. Deep enough to bring down the water table ( phreatic table) under the basement slab in order that when the pump starts at the high control level, the water level under the slab be at least 6" inch lower.

g) To dig around the house to change the foundation, (French drains) around the house serve nothing if the above points are not respected. In the majority of cases, it is not that the foundation drains are blocked; it is that the drains are overflowed with more than 10 times too much water and have been wet for 10, 20, 30 years or more.

Eventually, humidity or water appears through the porous concrete of the foundation. (1/2" inch per year)

Important data:

The four (4) down spouts coming from the eves at the four (4) corners are almost of the same dimension of four inch installed near the foundations.
In addition, during intense rainfalls, a vertical pipe gives three time more flow than an accordion shaped pipe installed horizontally.

Four (4) down spouts X three (3) times more flow = twelve (12) more flow than the capacity of the foundation drain.
If in addition the runoffs flows of the lot and of the surrounding land are added, it is impossible that a foundation drain suffice.

Second important data:

The "French" foundation drains should NEVER be used as a pluvial evacuation sewer or drain pipe. If it is done, see here what happens: window sills Click me!

Foundation drains are used mainly to dry-up the soils before the freeze-up of winter to avoid formation of cracks in the foundations, mainly if they are properly insulated.


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La cause des craques et de l'eau dans les sous-sols
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